Arrow Choices for Your Stickbow

By Brian Sorrells

            Now that you’ve acquired a stickbow that fits you and has a draw weight that you can handle, its time to choose the arrows you’ll shoot through it.  There are dozens, if not hundreds, of different makes, models, styles and materials of arrow shafts on the market.  Each has its own benefits and shortcomings and its up to you to figure out what works best for you.

            Basically, arrows are made from either wood, aluminum, carbon, or an aluminum carbon matrix.  Most folks who have read any of my other articles will tell you that I shoot carbon arrows exclusively.  Specifically, the Alaskan model of the Grizzlystik from Alaska Bowhunter’s Supply.  No, this isn’t a shameless plug for Ed’s benefit, but I’ve found that these arrows do everything I need them to do from my particular setup.  The Grizzlystik is tapered, which makes it fly better and overcome archer’s paradox more quickly.  Ed also makes a parallel Grizzlystik for those who prefer that style of arrow.  Most arrow manufacturer’s offer at least one style of carbon shaft, many in various camouflage patterns.

            The key to finding the correct arrow for your bow is to match the arrow length with your draw length and the weight of the head you’ll be shooting.  The bow applies the stored energy to the back of the arrow, propelling the arrow forward.  On a traditional bow, the shelf is not cut past center as it is on a compound bow.  Therefore, the shaft must bend around the riser for a very brief moment before it continues downrange.  Too much bend means the arrow doesn’t have enough stiffness, also called spine.  Not enough bend means the arrow will likely strike the riser, causing poor arrow flight right out of the box. 

            Begin by looking at an arrow spine chart to get an idea of what size shaft you need.  Aluminum shafts usually show the measurement by a series of numbers.  For instance, a 2314 shaft means the outside diameter of the arrow is 23/64” and the wall thickness is .014”.  Carbon shafts are shown by spine deflection.  Recurve bows are a little more tolerant of arrow spine problems because the shelf tends to be cut a shade past center, whereas longbows usually have the shelf cut to center, or sometimes a little less than to center.

            Remember your draw length, the important number I told you to remember?  To figure out what your arrow length should be, add 1 ½ inches to your draw length.  This will allow plenty of overhang for the point and keep the broadhead well away from the fingers of the bow hand.  For example, if your draw length is 28”, then you want an arrow that is at least 29 ½” long.  It can be longer if you wish, but it shouldn’t be any shorter.

            The longer the arrow shaft, the more flexible it is.  On the other hand, the shorter the shaft, the stiffer it is.  Once you’ve determined the correct length for your arrow, next you must decide what kind of point and broadhead you plan to use.  The heavier the head, the more the arrow will flex as it leaves the bow.  Choose an arrow that is stiff enough to allow enough flex to allow the shaft to bend around the bow riser.  Talk to other traditional archers if you can, especially ones who shoot the same draw weight that you do.  Find out what arrow/point combination gives them the best arrow flight.

            Bow tuning is a science unto itself, and books have been written on just that.  When fletching your arrows, you must use feather fletching when shooting off the shelf.  The length of the feather will help determine how well your arrow flies.  The standard feather length found on the majority of traditional arrows is 5 or 5 ½ inches.  This length provides plenty of stability while not slowing the arrow down too much.  Right or left helical fletching makes little difference, as long as there is helical present in the fletching.

            As I stated earlier, arrow tuning is a science and there’s not enough room here to go into completely.  I recommend buying my book, the Beginner’s Guide To Traditional Archery for a complete tutorial on the subject.  As always, feel free to e-mail me directly with any questions you might have at: bjarcher159@comcast.net

            Good luck and good shooting!